Alice Wickens, ‘From calico to catwalk: Addressing the UK’s enduring issue of fashion piracy’

INTRODUCTION
While the famous quote, oft attributed to Oscar Wilde, that ‘imitation is the sincerest form of flattery’ seems final on the matter, the debate as to whether the fashion industry benefits from copying has recently been revamped. In part, this is due to the rise of the internet, social media and fast-fashion, which have caused many to assume that piracy in the fashion industry is a product of the digital age and a new threat to creative expression. But fashion ‘dupes’ have a much longer history than most of us realize. English designers who created calico clothes in the 18th and 19th centuries likewise complained of piracy causing problems, which were emotively described at the time as novel and unmatched challenges that threatened to ruin the industry …

Alice Wickens , From calico to catwalk: Addressing the UK’s enduring issue of fashion piracy, Journal of Intellectual Property Law & Practice. Published: 5 December 2024.

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